The history of engagement rings in the United States of America has evolved significantly over the last 250 years, with diamond cuts playing a key role in shaping trends. From the earliest designs to the popular styles of today, American preferences for diamond cuts have been influenced by cultural shifts, technological advancements, and notable historical moments. Let’s explore the most popular engagement ring diamond cuts in the U.S. over the last few centuries, and how they reflect changing tastes and styles.
The Old Mine Cut (Late 1700s to Early 1800s)
In the early days of diamond engagement rings in the USA, the Old Mine Cut was one of the first diamond cuts to be used. Popular during the Georgian and early Victorian eras, this cut is often considered the American version of the antique cushion cut. The Old Mine Cut features a rounded shape with a high crown and deep pavilion, which gives the diamond a softer, vintage look. The cut was designed to maximize light reflection despite the limitations of early cutting techniques. Many antique rings in the U.S. feature this classic cut, often seen in heirloom jewelry passed down through generations.
The Brilliant Cut (Mid-1800s to Early 1900s)
The Brilliant Cut, which became widespread in the mid-19th century, marked a significant turning point in American engagement ring trends. By the 1850s, American jewelers began perfecting this cut, which maximized a diamond’s brilliance. With its round shape and 58 facets, the Brilliant Cut is designed to reflect light in a way that creates exceptional sparkle. This cut became the most popular engagement ring style in the U.S. during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and remains the dominant cut in modern engagement rings today.
The introduction of the Brilliant Cut coincided with the rise of diamonds in American engagement traditions, especially after the iconic 1947 De Beers marketing campaign with the slogan "A Diamond is Forever." This campaign helped solidify the round Brilliant Cut as the quintessential engagement ring shape, making it the most popular diamond cut in the U.S. ever since.
The Asscher Cut (Early 1900s)
During the early 20th century, the Asscher Cut gained popularity, particularly during the Art Deco era. Developed by Joseph Asscher in 1902, this square diamond cut features step facets that create a hall-of-mirrors effect. The Asscher Cut became well-loved for its geometric, sophisticated appearance, often seen in engagement rings in the U.S. during the early 1900s. It was a favorite among wealthy American socialites and was even used in several royal engagement rings. Although it fell out of favor for many decades, the Asscher Cut has made a comeback in recent years due to its vintage appeal and its connection to both the Art Deco period and Hollywood glamour.
The Emerald Cut (1920s to 1930s)
The Emerald Cut, characterized by its rectangular shape and long, step-cut facets, became popular in the U.S. during the 1920s and 1930s. It was a favorite of the Art Deco movement, which emphasized clean lines and geometric shapes. This cut was particularly popular among the American elite and Hollywood stars, with the U.S. being home to some of the most iconic emerald-cut engagement rings, such as the one worn by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. In contrast to the brilliant sparkle of the round cut, the Emerald Cut is known for its sleek, understated elegance, allowing clarity and color to shine through.
Though it fell out of favor for a period, the Emerald Cut has seen a resurgence in American engagement ring trends in recent years, especially among couples who prefer a vintage, classic style.
The Marquise Cut (Mid-1900s)
In the mid-20th century, the Marquise Cut became a popular choice in the U.S. for engagement rings, especially after being associated with the French monarchy. The cut, which features an elongated, oval shape with pointed ends, was named after the Marquise of Pompadour, King Louis XIV’s mistress. This unique shape was seen as a symbol of elegance and grandeur and was particularly popular in the 1950s and 1960s in America. The Marquise Cut created the illusion of a larger diamond due to its elongated shape, and it was especially favored in engagement rings during the mid-century for its striking and dramatic appearance.
While it’s not as dominant today, the Marquise Cut still maintains a niche following, particularly among those seeking a vintage-inspired design.
The Pear Cut (Late 1900s to Present)
The Pear Cut, also known as the teardrop shape, started gaining popularity in the late 20th century, especially in the U.S. The shape combines elements of both the round Brilliant Cut and the Marquise Cut, creating a distinctive, elongated silhouette. This shape allows for a larger appearance than other cuts of the same carat weight, making it a favorite among those who want an eye-catching diamond.
In recent years, the Pear Cut has seen a resurgence, partly due to celebrity influence, with figures like Blake Lively and Katherine Heigl showcasing engagement rings featuring pear-shaped diamonds. Today, it remains a popular choice for couples seeking a bold, modern look with a touch of vintage appeal.
The Cushion Cut (Early 2000s to Present)
The Cushion Cut, a shape that combines a square or rectangular outline with rounded corners, has become increasingly popular in the U.S. since the early 2000s. Often associated with vintage engagement rings, the Cushion Cut has large, deep facets that give the stone a romantic, old-world charm. Although this cut has been around for centuries, its modern resurgence is largely attributed to the rise of vintage-inspired styles and the growing popularity of antique and estate jewelry.
Today, the Cushion Cut is a popular choice for those seeking a diamond that combines both brilliance and nostalgia. It offers a distinctive look that is both timeless and modern.
The Oval Cut (2010s to Present)
The Oval Cut has become one of the most popular diamond cuts in the U.S. in recent years, especially after it gained significant attention following Kate Middleton’s engagement ring, which features an iconic oval sapphire. This cut offers a brilliant sparkle like the round Brilliant Cut but with an elongated, oval shape that can make the stone appear larger. It’s also an excellent choice for those who want a unique, modern look while still enjoying the classic brilliance associated with round diamonds.
The Oval Cut is now a staple in American engagement ring trends and is seen as both timeless and fashionable.
Conclusion
Over the last 250 years, the evolution of diamond cuts in American engagement rings has been influenced by changing tastes, technological advancements, and cultural moments. From the vintage Old Mine Cut to the modern Oval Cut, the U.S. has witnessed the rise and fall of various diamond shapes, each contributing to the story of engagement ring history. Today, while cuts like the round Brilliant, Oval, and Cushion dominate the market, vintage-inspired designs like the Asscher and Emerald Cuts continue to hold strong appeal for those seeking a timeless, unique style. No matter the decade, the engagement ring remains a deeply personal symbol of love, with the diamond cut playing an integral role in defining its beauty and significance.